So one of the common complaints by Brits drinking cider in North America, is that it lacks the pop of their beloved cider from the West Country in England. “Scrumpy” cider is a traditional style of cider from Somerset, and certainly has a lot of “pop”. Generally cloudy, these ciders are normally made exclusively with cider apples (no “eating” apples, which have more simple sugars), which make for a tart pint. Because they are generally made using centuries-old techniques (and often equipment), they can pick up minor bacteria infections, like Brettanomyces, which adds a drying feeling, and an aroma and taste of saddle blankets/barns. It’s better than it sounds, trust me. Real Somerset Scrumpy’s are to Strongbow what Chateau Margaux is to Fuzion. Our palates (for the most part), just aren’t there yet. But we’re working on it, and possibly nobody more so than the good folks at Spirit Tree Estate Cidery in Caledon. Trained in Somerset, their Pub Style Cider is much more “English” in style than a lot of others. Using a traditional 6-8 week fermentation, the cider picks up some Brettanomyces characteristics, but remains complex and delicate. It’s always a treat to find it on tap in Toronto, though I know I can generally get it from Brock at Burger Bar. Okay, less talk, more drink.
On draught at Burger Bar, Spirit Tree Pub Style Cider pours a pale champagne yellow, with a bit of fuzzy head that drops off quickly. Aroma is tart apples, some tea-like tannins, a bit of hay or grass, dried leaves and a touch of saddle blanket. Just lovely. Taste is more delicate than expected, still tart apples, but the cider is quite dry, and there are no cloying sugars. The apples present some tart crisp juiciness, a bit of peel and something floral. Hints of hay and dried leaves are still there adding depth. There’s a bit more Brett to the taste, and a hint of something that reminds me of lacto-fermented vegetables (which could be a different aspect of the Brett), with a nice little pop of alcohol on the back of the palate. The finish is quick and quite dry, with a touch of tartness lingering on my cheeks, but no sweetness carrying on. Complex with fascinating depths, yet very well balanced and delicate. An absolutely incredible cider, do try it if you get the chance. I didn’t bother with having any over ice, I was too busy loving it.
About The Cidery
Spirit Tree Estate Cidery is located on 46 acres of rolling hills in the town of Caledon, just above the village of Cheltenham, on a ridge of the beautiful Niagara Escarpment, overlooking Toronto. The clay soil is a natural habitat for wild apple trees and the perfect location for a cidery.
We were the first winery/cidery to use straw bale construction in Ontario and the largest in Canada. Other energy conservation methods we employ include a geothermal heating/cooling system, UV treatment system (instead of heat pasteurization), bio-filter water treatment system, wood-fired oven (for our bakery), and an underground fermentation cellar with gravity feed system.