25 years in business — any business — is cause for celebration. True, there are breweries in Europe that date back more than a century, but only Europeans pull that “thing X is better in Europe” nonsense. In craft brewing in Ontario, 25 is a big deal. Rightly so, Creemore Springs celebrated in style. How, you might ask? They brewed an ale. For the first time. Crazy, right? Many people actually don’t realize that all the styles of beer Creemore makes (“Premium” which is an amber lager, Pilsner, Ur Bock and Kellerbier) are all lagers, made with bottom-fermenting yeast, and then aged (“Lager” is literally the verb in German “to age”). Now, not wanting to go too crazy (I’m assuming), they stuck, not only with German styles, but also with actual lagering. I know, confusing. I’ll try to clarify. They decided to make an Altbier. Altbier is a style not familiar to most folks here in Ontario (indeed, the only two other examples I can think of are Beau’s Festivale and Sawdust City Ol’ Woody Alt). These are beers made with top-fermenting (ale) yeasts. However, they are specialized yeasts, which optimally ferment at lower temperatures and for longer times than their “normal” cousins. The beers made with them are then aged in tanks, for 6-8 weeks on average (like any “regular” lager), which takes a beer that is already quite low on fermenting by-products, and gets rid of pretty much any that made it in. The result is a rich beer, similar in some ways to a brown ale, but with a very clean crisp taste, and very little lingering aftertaste. The capitol of Altbier is Dusseldorf, in the northern part of Germany. And in Dusseldorf, there are nine breweries (well, brewpubs, really) that make Altbier. Each one has it’s own signature beer, and while the beers may appear to taste roughly the same, they are all quite different beasts. This is due mainly to each brewery using it’s own, very specific, highly prized, yeast strain. To learn the in’s and out’s of Altbier brewing, Creemore sent their Brewmaster and Head-Brewer to work with the brewers at Zum Schlüssel, one of the original four makers of Altbier. Not only did they learn from some of the finest, but in an act of huge respect and camaraderie, Zum Schlüssel sent them home with samples of their own yeast to use in their brew. This might seem insignificant to the uninitiated, but if you’re thinking “big deal”, trust me, this is a HUGE deal. So let’s see what intensive training, a highly protected yeast, and 25 years does in the effort to make your first ale.
Altbier — Creemore Springs Brewery
From a 473ml tallboy can, Altbier pours a clear copper-brown, with about 1.5″ of sturdy tight head. Fairly quickly, the head drops to a thick ring and a nice layer of foam that sticks around nearly to the bottom of the glass. Aroma is remarkably “German” and definitely an Altbier. Simultaneously malty and rich, with a classic tannic herbal German hop profile. Taste is also textbook. Nutty and malty sweet, with hops present right away, the sweetness gives way to a solid hoppy finish that is dry and clean, leaving just a trace of the lovely nuttiness. Actually, saying “dry and clean” doesn’t even come close. Ultra clean tasting (read, no esters from the brewing), it’s rare that I would say I can easily taste Munich or Vienna malt the way it tastes when you chew on the whole kernels. Hops are definitely German noble hops, Spalt, perhaps, and more? I know I might take a pen to the chest from Stephen Beaumont for saying this, but it is one heck of a drinkable beer. And no, I don’t mean it’s easier than most other liquids to physically move from a glass, through my mouth, and into my stomach, but I find I want to do it more so than a whole lot of other beverage choices. Emotionally, it reminds me of the perfect cup of tea at the cottage, or that gin and tonic on a patio; I could drink 6 or 7 as easily as 1 or 2. Crisp, smooth on the palate, and so interesting, I fear this can will be done too soon.
Really well done, Creemore. Not the easiest beer you’ve undertaken, but you’ve hit the nail on the head.
Buy This Beer
It is available at the LCBO, and probably the brewery in Creemore, but I understand it was a limited production. So, as they say, hoarder alter: Buy lots of this beer. I’m thinking in terms of cases, here. If you buy enough so that you have it when I run out, I might even bribe you into serving me some by showing up at your house with tasty BBQ or something. Buy lots. LCBO #309641
Drink It With
Well, this beer is a classic German beerhall choice, so those cliche German food choices would work well: Sausages, pretzels, roast chicken, etc. If you want to get creative, try a variation: Do a beer can chicken with it. Though I would personally hesitate to use one of these precious cans for cooking (and I don’t eat chicken), I bet it would be an excellent choice. Serve it with some fresh warm bread, a dollop of mustard and sauerkraut, and you may well reach enlightenment. For cheeses, sturdy firm cheeses that share some of the nuttiness would be good, maybe emmenthal, or young gouda. As an aside, I was eating pumpkin seeds with this as I was reviewing, and they made a lovely accompaniment. Earthy, nutty and slightly sweet, it was a perfect little snack.
About The Brewery
Established in 1987, Creemore Springs is one of Ontario’s original craft brewers, taking great pride to make beer the old fashioned way. Brewed in small batches, in an open flame copper kettle with its own local spring water, the finest barley malt, imported noble hops and select yeast. No additives, no preservatives, no pasteurization and no compromises. Just good old-fashioned pure, natural beer. That’s why consumers seek out our four distinct beer styles at fine establishments everywhere. The brewery is located in a century-old hardware store on the main street of the Village of Creemore, ON. Visitors are welcomed with beer tastings, brewery tours, a charming beer store and small town hospitality. For more information visit www.creemoresprings.com.
